You can hardly walk through Brașov’s Old Town without noticing it.
The Black Church rises just behind Council Square, looking imposing, slightly mysterious and, when the clouds gather over Mount Tâmpa, genuinely dramatic. Brașov has no shortage of photogenic buildings, but this one manages to dominate the historic centre without even standing in the main square.
The exterior alone is enough to make most visitors stop and look up. But is the Black Church worth visiting inside, or is it mainly an impressive landmark to admire from the street? The short answer is yes, particularly if you enjoy architecture, history or music. The interior also contains a few things you would probably not expect to find in a Lutheran church in Transylvania – including a remarkable collection of Ottoman rugs.
The Black Church in Brașov is a representative construction for the Gothic style in Romania, being considered the largest church in the country, but also the largest Gothic place of worship in Southeast Europe. It has a capacity of 5,000 seats, is 89 meters long and 37 meters high, to which is added the tower of 65 meters high.
At the base, there is the idea of a hall-type church, consisting of choir, nave and tower, a very popular model in Germany, from where the architects who contributed to its restoration were.
The Black Church in Brașov: a brief history
The building was originally known as Saint Mary’s Church. Its construction began towards the end of the 14th century, when Brașov—known to its German-speaking inhabitants as Kronstadt—was developing into an important commercial centre.
The church was built by the city’s prosperous Saxon community and modelled partly on major Gothic churches from Central Europe. Construction took close to a century and was interrupted by the Ottoman attack on Brașov in 1421.
Originally Roman Catholic, the church later became one of the most important centres of the Lutheran Reformation in Transylvania. In October 1542, the first Lutheran service in Transylvania was held here. A devastating fire in 1689 severely damaged both the church and much of Brașov.
The roof collapsed, the interior was buried under rubble and ash, and the reconstruction took almost another century. During that process, parts of the medieval interior were replaced or complemented by Baroque elements.
The Black Church through the centuries
| Period | What happened |
|---|---|
| Late 14th century | Construction of Saint Mary’s Church began |
| 1421 | Building work was disrupted during an Ottoman attack on Brașov |
| 1542 | The first Lutheran service in Transylvania was held here |
| 1689 | The Great Fire of Brașov severely damaged the church |
| 18th century | The church’s roof and interior were gradually reconstructed |
| 1836–1839 | Carl August Buchholz built and installed the great organ |
| 19th century | The name “Black Church” became commonly established |
The building that visitors see today is therefore not the product of a single historical period. Gothic architecture, post-fire reconstruction, Baroque furnishings and 19th-century additions all coexist under the same enormous roof.
The fire – why is the church black?
In addition to the earthquakes it stoically resisted, the church was also set on fire. Therefore, the name of the church (“black church”) was given following the fire that took place in 1689 during the Ottoman invasion. After the fire the walls of the church remained black. The new name of the church (“the Black Church”) was made official only much later, in the nineteenth century.
After this fire, during which the church was visibly affected, it took other 100 years for complete restoration. During these restorations, the roof was enlarged and inside, the Gothic elements were replaced with Baroque elements. However, the visitor can still discover inside the church an impressive treasure, composed of art objects, which have withstood time and trials; among these we enumerate: the baptismal font (dated 1472, made of bronze, withstood the fire), the gothic portals (from 1477), the altar from Feldioara, the pulpit (from 1696).
5 things to know about the most representative tourist attraction of Brașov
1. The Black Church in Brașov hosts the Buchholtz mechanical organ
The organ was named after its maker, and is known as the largest, most unique and functional organ in Southeast Europe (it has 3993 pipes and 76 registers). It is known for its sonority of exceptional beauty.
2. Impressive collection of Anatolian carpets
An impressive collection of Anatolian carpets can be found in the Black Church (most of the existing rugs come from donations from wealthy parishioners). Throughout the church, the splendor of the approximately 100 carpets predominates, in a multitude of shades and patterns, of an indisputable historical value. Their condition is from good to excellent, which is due to the former church workshop that contributed to their good preservation.
In addition, the Black Church in Brașov has many unique works of art, dating from six centuries and sourced from two continents.
Read also: The citadel of Brașov – best and must-see sights
3. Wall paintings inside the church
The wall paintings inside the church (Virgin Mary with Jesus Christ in her arms, accompanied by St. Catherine and St. Barbara). Fortunately, these frescoes escaped the fire of 1689.
4. The legend of the statue that seems to fall
Outside, on the north side, there is a statue of a child who seems to be falling. It is an atypical element for churches, but which has as a possible explanation a legend: it is said that an older worker, jealous of the talent of his young colleague, pushed the latter when he was bent over to raise something on the cornice. This statue was built in memory of that young man.
5. Tombs dating from the Middle Ages
Thanks to archaeological research around the church, in 2011-2013 were discovered over 50 tombs dating from the Middle Ages and modern times but also the walls of a former chapel of the Black Church (possibly from the14th century – attested only in documents until its discovery).
At the same time, pieces of vessels, pits for supplies, ornaments and two tombstones were discovered, one of which was in very good condition.
The Black Church is located in the center of Brașov and is visited annually by over 100,000 tourists. During the summer, organ concerts take place inside the church, three times a week. The tradition started in 1953 continues today, the organ of the Black Church attracting organists from abroad but also from the country.
The Black Church in Brașov is a place full of history that, in its over 600 years, has known its rise and decline, but never its defeat.
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